“The skin’s barrier, which is known as the acid mantle, is responsible for keeping in lipids and moisture while blocking germs, pollution, toxins, and bacteria,” explains Patricia Wexler, M.D., a New York City dermatologist. “To work its best, the acid mantle should be slightly acidic, at a 5.5 pH balance. When it’s too alkaline, skin becomes dry and sensitive; you may even get eczema. You may also experience inflammation, which inhibits the skin’s ability to ward off matrix metalloproteinases [MMPs], the enzymes that destroy collagen and cause wrinkles and sagging.”
In fact, according to a 2010 study published in the British Journal of Dermatology that tracked women’s skin over an eight-year period, women with an alkaline stratum corneum (the skin’s outermost layer) developed more fine lines and crow’s-feet—and were more prone to sun damage—than those with acidic skin.
Though it’s rarer for skin to be overly acidic, the result is often angry breakouts . When skin deviates too far south of that magical 5.5 number, it’s also stripped down to the point of being red, inflamed, and painful to touch.
Take the acid test…
Acid Test
Answer these questions to find out where you fall on the pH spectrum.
1. How does your skin feel after cleansing?
a) Soft and smooth
b) Tight and dry
c) Still slightly oily or not thoroughly clean
2. How often do you moisturize your face?
a) At least morning and evening
b) Once a day
c) Never
3. Has your skin become sensitive to products you regularly use, including makeup and creams?
a) No, it feels normal, like always.
b) Once in a while
c) Yes. It seems like it reacts to everything I put on it lately.
4. How often does your skin have dry, flaky, rough patches?
a) Never
b) Sometimes
c) Usually
5. Do you notice that your skin looks duller and has more lines in the morning?
a) No
b) Yes, usually
c) It’s a very rare occurrence.
6. Is your skin excessively oily and prone to breakouts (whereas it wasn’t in the past)?
a) No
b) Occasionally
c) Yes
7. Does your skin often look red and feel irritated?
a) No
b) It stings only after applying products.
c) Yes
8. Does your skin look plump, moist, and dewy?
a) Almost always
b) Rarely
c) It’s plump, but more greasy than dewy.
If you answered mostly b’s, your skin’s pH is. . .
Too high. Your chronic dryness and wrinkling likely mean your acid mantle is being dismantled—you’re too alkaline, baby. With its protective lipids removed, your skin is falling prey to bacteria, UV rays, and harsh ingredients. Take a close look at how (and how often) you’re cleansing, scrubbing, and hydrating. You need to make sure that your skin can ward off the damaging factors that are making it look older than it should.
f you answered mostly a’s, your skin’s pH is. . .
Just right! Your skin (and its pH) live in a shiny, happy place not inhabited by premature aging and wrinkles. Having skin this good isn’t an accident, so kudos to you for gold-star moisturizing and exfoliating, and using the right products. Stay on the same course and you’ll continue to glow.
If you answered mostly c’s, your skin’s pH is. . .
Too low. Your regular oiliness, breakouts, and sensitivity point to acid overload. Chances are, you’re OD’ing on the peeling products (think acids) in an effort to sop up excess grease. And while this type of exfoliation can make for a healthy complexion, your skin is suffering from too much of a good thing. Your mission: Use products in moderation instead of abusing them (and your skin).
For information on how to maintain pH level with household ingredients, click here
